Volcanoes National Park

What you gain

• ↑Mountain gorilla trekking is one of the most profound wildlife experiences on Earth: spending one hour with a habituated gorilla family — watching silverbacks, mothers with infants, juveniles playing — in Dian Fossey's mist-forest is an encounter that most visitors describe as life-changing
• ↑Golden monkey trekking in the bamboo zone below the gorilla habitat is available as an add-on and provides a completely different and equally extraordinary wildlife encounter at a fraction of the permit cost ($100 vs $1,500)
• ↑The twin crater lakes of Ruhondo and Bulera visible from the Musanze (Ruhengeri) area are among the most beautiful landscapes in Rwanda — a worthwhile half-day aside before or after the gorilla trek

What you sacrifice

• ↓The $1,500 gorilla permit is non-negotiable and fixed — it is by far the world's most expensive wildlife permit, though the conservation rationale (funds going directly to gorilla protection and community programmes) is solid
• ↓The trek itself is physically demanding regardless of season: steep volcanic terrain, thin altitude air at 2,500–3,500m, and bamboo forest that requires crawling through in places; the difficulty varies enormously by family location (2–8 hours roundtrip)